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HOW TO CARE

For Knitwear

The season for knitwear in Britain extends from autumn through to late spring. And let’s be realistic, sometimes into early summer too. With your favourite jumpers and cardigans spending so much time in and out of your wardrobe, understanding how to properly care for them is important.

WOMEN'S KNITWEAR MEN'S KNITWEAR

From recognising the different wools and washing them with care, to mending them when they become a little worn, we’ve put together a comprehensive guide that will help your knits see many more seasons.

TYPES OF WOOL

WHAT IS CASHMERE?

Perhaps the most premium type of wool, cashmere is a natural fibre sheared from the undercoat of goats. It has a luxuriously soft and lightweight feel, while maintaining great warmth and insulation. Cashmere is preferred by many as it’s less itchy than standard sheep’s wool. And while it’s certainly an investment piece, cashmere is synonymous for its durability meaning it will live a long time in your wardrobe.

So, where does cashmere come from? While many goats can produce the fibre of some kind, its quality will vary. The finest cashmere comes from Capra Hircus goats which reside in the Mongolian mountains. Due to the winters reaching -40 conditions, the cashmere these goats produce traps air for ultimate warmth and grows extremely long.

WHAT IS LAMBSWOOL?

As the name suggests, lambswool is wool from lambs. It’s taken during the young lamb’s first shearing, at around seven months old, when the wool is at its softest - especially on the undercoat. It’s a great choice for those that want to welcome a wool jumper into their wardrobe without the worry of feeling itchy. As the lamb grows, its coat is coarser and becomes more common sheep’s wool.

Not only is lambswool considered one of the finest on the market, it’s also full of technical benefits. It regulates and adapts to the body’s temperature meaning if you’re cold the wool will retain heat, but too warm it will transfer the heat away from the skin. It’s also hypoallergenic perfect for allergy sufferers and is naturally flame resistant.

WHAT IS MERINO WOOL?

Merino wool takes its name from the Merino sheep which is the breed the wool is shawn from, and is widely known for producing high-quality fleece.

Similarly to lambswool, Merino has many natural features that make it a comfortable and popular alternative to other wools. It’s known to be odour resistant even after multiple wears, regulates temperature, moisture wicking and has a soft feel that doesn’t itch. Merino wool jumpers are an unfussy staple for knitwear season, as they’re breathable and don’t tend to crease.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR KNITWEAR

How to Wash Wool

Whether it’s a new ladies’ wool jumper you’ve been excited to purchase, or his forever favourite men’s wool jumper, knowing how to wash your wool garments is a crucial part in ensuring your knitwear doesn’t need updating every season.

When it comes to washing lambswool handwashing is generally considered the best for lambswool, in warm water and using a wool detergent. Do not dry clean, tumble dry or hang on a hanger during the drying process as all of these methods can stretch, shrink or warp the fabric.

If your care label specifies that your lambswool garment has been treated and therefore is machine washable, always use a gentle wool cycle on a low temperature.

As a general, sheep or a range of synthetic wools can be safely machine washed, unless the care label states differently. With 100% wool content it’s often better to air on the side of caution and handwash, but low wool content should fare perfectly fine in the machine - provided you use the right settings. If your washing machine has a ‘wool’ setting, this is best as it keeps the temperature cool and the spin slow. If it doesn’t, then set your machine to the coldest wash (below 30) and if possible use a wool detergent or wool shampoo.

How Do You Wash Merino Wool?

The good news about cleaning Merino wool is that it doesn’t need to be done very often due to the aforementioned odour resistant properties. And as a general, to keep your knits looking and feeling their best, either spot cleaning or only washing them when really needed is key to their longevity.

When the time does come to washing garments such as Merino wool jumpers be sure to check the care label. If it says ‘dry clean only’ or even ‘do not clean’, then take it to the professionals and get their insight. Better to be safe than sorry. Otherwise, as with the other wools, handwashing is by far the safest method.

Invest in an enzyme-free wool or cashmere shampoo and fill a sink with cool water and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Rinse the garment until no more soap remains, then gently press the water out before lying flat to dry.

If your care label gives you the green light to machine wash, then be sure to turn your jumper inside out, place into a mesh bag to avoid any potential snagging and use a gentle, cool wash.

How to Wash Cashmere

If you’ve invested in a cashmere jumper you might, understandably, feel some nervousness when it comes to washing it for the first time. While this natural fibre isn’t as delicate as you might assume, care should still be taken to keep it in the best condition possible.

A hand-wash is the most recommended way to wash cashmere as it’s gentle and controllable:

- Fill a basin with lukewarm water - not hot as this can cause cashmere to shrink - and add a gentle detergent. Baby shampoo also works a treat.

- Leave it to soak for 15 minutes before lightly moving the garment around to remove any obvious dirt.

- Empty the basin and re-fill with cold water to rinse out the detergent until no more suds remain.

- Squeeze out the excess water being careful not to ‘wring’ the garment as this can cause the fabric to stretch.

Machine washing cashmere is also possible and some care labels may even suggest it. If opting for this, only use a short cycle on a low temperature and if your machine has it, a ‘wool’ or ‘delicates’ setting.

When drying cashmere it should be laid on a flat surface or folded in an airing cupboard. It should never be hung as it may stretch on the hanger, or put in the tumble dryer as this is known to cause it to shrink.

Once dry, steaming the garment is the safest way to remove any creases.

How to Repair Knitwear

Whether it’s wear and tear, or a run in with the door handle, snagging or pulled threads on your knitwear are a nuisance. But luckily, they can be quite easily fixed if you’re somewhat handy with a needle and thread. If not, then perhaps leave it to the professionals.

1) Gently stretch the material around the snag back into shape – you should see some of the thread disappear back into the garment.

2) Turn the jumper inside out and carefully pull the thread back through. Keep pulling gently and threading the snag with a blunt needle through to the next stitch.

3) Repeat until the snag has completely disappeared.

4) Finally, smooth out your garment until it has returned to how you want it to look.

How to Debobble a Jumper

Technically known as ‘pilling’, these bobbles can be unsightly, but the good news is there’s several ways to remove them and get your jumper back to looking new again.

Investing in a debobbler, which is specifically designed for the job of removing these fuzzy balls, is the obvious solution.

When it comes to fabrics such as cashmere, having a cashmere comb is also a good idea.

If you’re looking for more home remedies for your bobbling, try using sticky tape to loosen the balls from the fabric, or a velcro hair roller works a treat too.

How to Stop Moths Destroying Your Knitwear

If you’re storing your knitwear for a longer period of time, then be sure to give it a last wash before folding it away as moths are less likely to be drawn to clean smelling clothes.

When storing your knits, consider using a woven storage bag to keep moths out.

Adding regular sprays of lavender, rosemary, cloves, bay leaf or tyme into your wardrobe may help as these are scents known to deter moths. The same goes for cedar oils.

Finally, as moths thrive in the dark, allowing light to enter the wardrobe or cupboard will make them feel less attracted to the area.

How to Fix Moth Holes

Then, if despite all your efforts the moths still make a meal out of your favourite jumper or cardigan, there are some simple repairs you can make to fix moth holes.

The most recommended way is to leave it in the hands of the experts and take it along to your local seamstress.

If you’re keen to give it a try yourself, follow these steps:

1) Clothing moth larvae are the cause of the holes. So, the first step is to place your garment in a sealed plastic bag and leave it in the freezer for a few days to kill off any remaining larvae.

2) Darning is the best way to fix a hole in knitwear. To do this you will need scissors, a darning needle, matching coloured wool and a ‘darning mushroom’.

3) Turn the garment inside out and place the darning mushroom beneath the moth hole to hold the fabric in place whilst you work.

4) Start stitching horizontally across the hole using the remaining loops as an anchor, make sure not to over-tighten the stitches as this will cause the garment to gather around the hole.

5) Once that is done you will need to place vertical stitches that weave under and over the horizontal stitches. Try to keep these as uniform as possible so that your needlework blends in as much as possible with the existing knit.